St. Cuthbert’s Way, Day 5 & 6, Kirk Yetholm, Wooler, Beal
The drive to Wooler was beautiful and it is beginning to sound cliche’ but everywhere we went was gorgeous and after a while words run out. We crossed the border from Scottish Borders, Scotland, into Northumberland, England, for the final segments of St. Cuthbert’s Way. To our surprise while the landscape remained the same in England, the people and culture, including accent, changed immediately. Julie wrote, “It’s like crossing state lines here. Immediately the accent and phrases changed. I much prefer the Scottish speech to the English. My favorite is that every Scot greets you with How ya’. (pronounced Hi ya)” This leg of the pilgrimage is the most difficult to walk because it climbs into the Cheviot Hills. We traveled by car but I have read that some of the ascents are quite steep.
On arrival we dropped our bags at Black Bull Inn. It was Sunday and after church everyone spent the rest of the day in the inn’s pub/restaurant laughing, shouting across the room at one another, watching sports on tv and just enjoying themselves together. It was a lovely thing to see. Pot roast was on the menu for lunch and I was sad that I had eaten a big breakfast because the plates were piled high and it looked and smelled delicious.
We then headed out to explore. Because it was Sunday all of the shops were locked up tight; there were no sales except food, even the pharmacy was closed till evening. It was super peaceful and in the words of my sister it was “so refreshing”. Julie checked her trails app and found many in the area. So while I prayed and explored the cathedrals and reveled in the extensive gardens outside one church, she decided to hike. “I walked the ancient battle grounds today in Northumberland. I intended to take a short hike, but of course I got off track three times (face palm) and it turned into quite a hike. The scenery was amazing and every step got prettier and prettier. I was on all fours again today because the hill was so steep I was afraid of falling backwards.”
In the evening one gift/book/Bible shop opened and I enjoyed exploring the many books and, unique to me, items on offer there. We dined at the only place open that evening. Milan Restaurant, situated down the ally just beyond our hotel door, is incredible and quite fancy for such a small town. Julie enjoyed Shetland mussels in wine, garlic, and herb cream. I treated myself to a luscious ribeye.
Symbolism
The pilgrimage, for me, was an allegory of my life. I will tell the story of each day’s trek and following each daily description I will share the particular symbolisms and their meanings as God has shown me for the events and places of that day.
- Wooler symbolizes my years in the Himalayan region of South Asia. While the Cheviot Hills are lovely they hold no comparison the the magnificence of those snow-clad Himalayan peaks that I love so much. I am, however, sure that is the location they reference.
- The cultural change and language differences represent the different people group that I lived and worked among. The language there is quite difficult but, just as ‘hi ya’ is easily mimicked, I did manage to conquer the the local greeting very quickly. LOL
- The town was closed all day. The cultural group I lived among has fought hard to maintain their uniqueness and so is tightly closed to other spiritual ideas.
- The bits of sun that afternoon and the gorgeous gardens mimic God’s grace that shone on the work of my team.
- The shop that opened in the evening and the sumptuous meal before my retiring (for the night) shadow the door that God has opened through the team’s business and the many relationships that have been cultivated through the past several years.
Day 6. Wooler to Beal
In Kirk Yetholm we were advised to book ahead for our final nights of pilgrimage. Since Fenwick had no rooms and Beal was closer to the beach and causeway to Holy Island we booked a room there at Lindisfarne Inn. We wanted to spend three nights, two full days on Holy Island. But there were no vacancies for three consecutive nights, even though it was off season. After a bit of prayer, thankfully I found a B&B, Rose Villa, and scheduled our last nights there.
Arriving late Monday morning in Beal with Julie feeling poorly, we declared a rest and recovery day. Of course, we couldn’t get into our room yet but thankfully the dining room was open and so we spent our time there snacking and enjoying the “dogs welcome in restaurants” culture.
The walk across the sands to Holy Island was the highlight of our pilgrimage and we had said all along that for that final stretch walking was the only option. For us that was the most important segment of the St. Cuthbert’s Way pilgrimage. The tidal causeway as well as the sands can only be accessed at low tide. Once again God was faithful. The tide would be out next day from 12:00 noon until 9:30 pm. So we planned to checkout and be on our way at noon. We both very much wanted to walk barefoot across the sands which is the traditional pilgrimage way. I, however, had been nervous the past few days about the cold waters of the North Sea in March and told my sister that I while I desperately wanted to walk the sands barefoot I was nervous so might walk the causeway while she went the traditional route. But, some kind fellow travelers assured us that cold water would not be an issue in the tidal pools. So, greatly relieved, I made the decision to walk the pilgrim route in the pilgrim way and perhaps sensed that God was smiling.
Coffee, Tea, and Reverie 